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Destinations, Landscape Architecture, Musings, Peru, Photography, South America

Rainy Season Flora of the Inca Trail

January 30, 2012

Do you know the secret of western Oregon’s beauty? The rain.

We natives either love to hate it or love to brag about our webbed feet, but more than that, we love to enjoy the sweeping vistas of indigenous green and the rainbow of ornamental plants that grow effortlessly up and down the Willamette Valley.

When Ted and I booked our Inca Trail journey for Peru’s rainy season, we were well-prepared with waterproof pants and jackets. What we weren’t prepared for was the surprise of beautiful wildlife growing lush along the trek. It makes perfect sense, though.

I only wish I’d had enough forethought to geek out and carry a field guide to Peruvian flora.

Instead, I captured photos of favorites for a future self-imposed research assignment.

This collection is dedicated to my design collaborator and fellow Oregonian, Gavin Younie of Outdoor Scenery Design. Enjoy the plants, my friend! I was thinking of you all the way…

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Destinations, Musings, Peru, Photography, South America

Reaching Machu Picchu

January 28, 2012

The last scramble along the Inca Trail to reach the Sun Gate fell into the utterly epic category. Up by 3:20am, packed bags, quick breakfast, squished along the bench at the fast-forming passport control line. We waited until the last six kilometers of trail opened at 5:20am, then bolted. It felt nothing short of silly to be so rushed, but the pressure of sunrise and the crowds of loud Argentinians following hot on our heals kept us in rapid forward motion.

The reward?

A spectacular circular rainbow at the top and the first glimpse of long awaited Machu Picchu…

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Destinations, Musings, Peru, Photography, South America

The Inca Trail: Footfalls and Photos

January 26, 2012

From initial brainstorm to final ticket purchase, a visit to Peru’s famed Machu Picchu ruins topped Ted’s travel list. It became a non-negotiable.

We spent time researching our options:

Go ultra budget and hitchhike to Ollantaytambo, hoof the railroad tracks to Aguas Calientes, tromp the switchbacked road to the top of the mountains, eek out a few Soles for entry tickets, and smuggle G.O.R.P. inside the deep recesses of our backpacks.

Go medium budget and score cheap tickets on the train, pay for the bus to the entry gate, and visit Machu Picchu for the day.

Go money and sweat equity and sign up for three nights and four days of camping and trekking along the 48 kilometer Inca Trail to eventually arrive on the final morning overlooking the ancient ruins at sunrise, then augment the experience by purchasing second day entry tickets with passes to climb Hyuana Picchu for mountaintop perspective.

Go full bananas and helicopter in from the Sacred Valley, perching at the $1200/night hotel just outside the park entry.

I’ll bet you can guess which we *didn’t* choose to do.

The call of the trail pulled us in…

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Musings, Peru

Cusco, Peru: Acclimation and Recovery

January 22, 2012

After a nasty 21 hour overnight bus ride from the sea level of Lima to the 11,500′ high mountain city of Cusco, we were ready to stretch our legs and wander…

We made a march up from Plaza de San Blas to a hospedaje situated in the hills above the main center. The streets were narrow and interrupted with steps, keeping cars from making it to the front door and subsequently keeping costs down. For S/50 ($18.56) a night, we had a humble home for a three day stay. (Never mind that toilet seats apparently don’t rank as necessary amenities…)



We stood on the porch and pinched ourselves as the peaceful views unfolded each day. Less than one week from home and we were completely immersed in a new life… Continue Reading…

Musings, Peru, Social Work, South America

Lima, Too

January 20, 2012

A split down the middle of circumstance divides society in Lima, and we were offered the opportunity to run headlong into the challenge of wrapping our minds around the schism between rich and poor.

For perspective, a Peruvian woman working diligently in the city as a maid in a high class household might make 30 Peruvian Soles per day, or S/600 per month. In US dollars, our current exchange rate puts that at $11.10/day, or $222/month.

A trip to the grocery store for Ted and me to buy olives, cheese, plums, a bottle of (cheap) red wine, and a few fresh baked rolls came to S/53.80, or $19.90. Nearly double a maid’s daily wages.

Our Servas hostess, Anna, arranged for us a visit with her housekeeper Dadi, to see her under-construction home and gain a clearer picture of life outside the capital’s popular districts. During our travels, it’s important to us to see beyond the tourist cityscapes.

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Musings, Peru, South America

Good Morning, Lima!

January 7, 2012


After an uneventful flight to Lima, Peru and a quick first night’s stay in a guest house in San Miguel we awoke to explore the city and by that evening found ourselves pleasantly situated in San Isidro, just to the north of Miraflores District. We’ve been mostly without wi-fi, and we’ve left the computer in the bag for the past 48 hours in favor of leaping head first into the new surroundings. Rather than re-create the wheel, for tonight I’ll simply share a copy of Ted’s recent email update to our parents.

Happy eavesdropping…

Hello Dads and Moms,

We are having a great time in Lima. Through the SERVAS network, we were connected with a woman named Anna who invited us to her home for three nights. She lives in a very nice upper-middle class neighborhood. She is elderly but extremely well educated, traveled, and spunky. She is German by birth, lived in New Orleans for 25 years, and retired here in Lima. What a great person! Even though well off, she and her sister, who lives in a neighboring unit, are very aware of the slums. Anna’s maid (Dadi) has invited us to her home tomorrow on the hill. It will be a very different experience from this. Two hours travel by bus. Somewhat sketch, but we’ll be safe with her as we are her guests and she has been Anna’s maid (and friend) for years.

So far, amazing to see God’s perfect connections for us. Were treated to drinks by a father and son from Spain today. We met them during a stressful moment on a bus. All of us bought tickets to the top of a mountain, but instead, the company announced after departure that the lookout was closed and tried to take us on the tour of the city instead. There was near revolt. Everyone yelling and trying to get their money back. The guys from Spain stayed with us until we got our refund, took us to beers, shared stories, and have shared their contact info for while we’re in Spain (very near them actually). Good times.

The Peruvian people are SO gracious, very helpful. We accidentally got into a bad area of town today, and within 5 minutes, 2 Peruvians had come to our aid, one telling us to put our camera away quickly, the other helping us flag down a taxi to get our of the neighborhood. Very good folks watching out for us.

We are already sunburned and sore, but happy as clams. Monday we leave for a 21 hour bus ride to Cuzco before starting the hike to Machu Picchu on Friday. Can’t wait.

Love you all! Feel free to share…

Ted (and Bethany)

Fine Dining at Anna’s Home: fresh brewed anise tea, boiled sweet potatoes, cucumber & tomato salad, rolls from the neighborhood bakery, roast chicken and a traditional pastry for dessert in honor of Epiphany.
Musings

Dawn

January 5, 2012

All is well!

We’re sitting the SFO International Terminal waiting to board our flight to Lima, Peru.

Sunrise over Mt. Hood

I stole a photo from Dad’s camera this past week… A beautiful view and a reminder of home as a new day starts…

We made it bright and early to the airport. Many thanks to my (six-foot-two-inch) little brother, Seth, for getting up at 3am, driving us to the departure gate, and surprising us with new traveling uniforms. (See a quick picture here since I can’t seem to get my iPhone photos uploaded yet.) : )

And many thanks to Darian, Bekah, and Ashlynn who gave us hugs and sent us on our way…

Wish us luck! If our first flight from PDX to SFO was any indication, we’re off to a great start: bumped up to exit row leg room with time and comfort enough to catch a cat nap.

xoxo

B&T

Musings, Travel Plans

Our New Traveling Companion: The Opinel

December 31, 2011

The craziness of packing is upon us! As we pare down to the final core of life essentials and prepare to stuff it all in a bag, we’re gratefully thinking of all the family and friends who are behind our plans with 110% of their cheer and prayers.

Departure: O-dark-hundred AM on Thursday morning.

We received the sweetest farewell gift  this past week from Jane: an Opinel Knife meant to keep us company on our travels and serve as butler during many a fine picnic of bread, apples, salami, and cheese…

“Originally sold as a simple working man’s knife, the Opinel has since become an iconic symbol of French culture and lifestyle. Pablo Picasso used an Opinel to carve his sculptures, while Roger Frison-Roche, the Savoyard alpine guide and mountaineer, never made an ascent without carrying an Opinel along. Éric Tabarly, the long-distance solo sailor and yachtsman, swore by the Opinel, which he always carried aboard his sailing yacht, the Pen Duick.”

If I do say so, I was charmed to learn that “In 1985 the Victoria and Albert Museum in London selected the Opinel as part of an exhibit celebrating the ‘100 most beautiful products in the world,’ featuring the Opinel alongside the Porsche 911 sports car and the Rolex watch.”

Jane: thank you for keeping us classy on the road! No matter the grime of tangles in our hair or days without laundry, we’ll be able to whip this out and feel quite sophisticated.

However, I think this seals the deal about not always going carry-on. (wink)

For those of you in the area, Ted’s parents are hosting a farewell from 2-4pm this Sunday afternoon. Come find us on Facebook for details.

Much love and joy to you in the New Year!

Musings, Portland, Social Work

What To Do With Open Eyes?

December 26, 2011

This post is part of the 2011 #TBGB Travel Bloggers Give Back project.

In an earlier post, Moving a Mile to Live Abroad, I shared about our recent 18-month experience starting a transitional housing community for formerly homeless families in Portland, Oregon and how the season of unconventional travel opened my eyes anew to invisible cultures.

In letting you in on my thoughts, I’ve honestly shared that I’m still learning what these lessons mean and wondering how to carry the responsibility of awareness.

My conclusions thus far: We do well to be actively acknowledging the existence of the troubles, connecting with people, partnering with programs, and resisting cheap guilt-assuaging fixes that only feed the problems.

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